~ View from atop the Fortezza in Montalcino, the home of Tassi Brunello, Tuscan Snips ~
This is the first installment of Tuscan Snips this year. As a result, I’ve decided to include some heavy hitters; both new releases and cellar gems. Let’s kick it off!
Tenuta La Fuga is the Brunello property owned by Giovanni and Ambrogio Folonari. Located near the commune of Camigliano, the estate has been in the Folonari portfolio since 2001. La Fuga is Folonari’s smallest estate and while the vineyard spans only 10 hectares, most of the vines are approaching 30+ years of age. As a result, the complexity in the wines is becoming more impressive.
I was impressed with their effort in 2018. I am equally impressed now. The 2019 Tenuta La Fuga Brunello is a deep ruby, classic color. La Fuga uses only large Slavonian Botte in their aging process.
The aromas were perfumed upon opening, but the palate benefited from air. So factor that in to your enjoyment. Toasted tobacco, baking spices, perfume and black cherry mark the nose. On the palate, this is full bodied and elegant, with a massive core of black cherry that is round and approachable. With air, fennel and coffee grinds add pleasant complexity. The draw here is the mouthfeel and the approachability. 92 points. Find this wine. Organic.
~ Like many larger Florentine families, the Folonari’s own property throughout Tuscany ~
In recent years, the pricing at Argiano has gotten a bit too silly for my Dime. That trend hasn’t seemed to impact the estate’s Solengo, but it’s something that bears watching.
~ The villa at Argiano has been fully restored by the new owners ~
The 2021 Argiano Solengo is very worthy successor to the amazing 2019. And it remains an excellent value. Dark purple in the glass that exudes aromas of blue flowers, lavender, plums and black fruits. Very approachable, with black fruits, sweet herbs and soft wood notes on the palate. If you want a Bordeaux blend from Tuscany, it’s hard to beat Solengo. 94 points. Find this wine.
~ Enjoyed from a NYC wine list at damn near retail pricing. Which is good, since it offset the ticket I got earlier that night! ~
Next up was a perennial favorite. Tignanello has the reputation it does for a reason. I mean, my last review on this wine was in 2018 and I really can’t say I’d change a word. I said this about the 2015 Tignanello:
“Pure silk. Refined, elegant, power. The elder statesmen. Fred Astaire in top hat and tails. Long, dusty, clay driven finish commands another sip. Tannins? They are so well integrated they seem absent. If there’s a knock here, it’s that this is drinking so well now I almost wonder how long it will age.”
Now I’ll say it’s aging just fine. 98 points. Find this wine. Hopefully you bought on release because the pricing on the 2015 now is dumb.
~ I’ve had the 2015 countless times and it has shown great with each tasting ~
And Tignanello’s big brother….
The current pricing for the 2021 Solaia, which is trickling to market, is now $350. I’m saddened by this. It’s a great wine. I have a few different vintages in my cellar. But these were mostly acquired long ago and sadly, one day they will be gone. I treat myself to a bottle per vintage – usually I find it on the Rustic Tuscany Tour where it might be marginally cheaper.
The 2020 Antinori Solaia is breathtaking. I’ve been fortunate enough to enjoy this vintage a few times and it drinks so well now it’s hard to hold onto it. Maybe it’ll shut down, but I tend to think not based on the other 2020s I’ve had across Tuscany that seem very approachable.
Opaque color with a dark violet rim at the edge of the bowl. Black fruit aromas spill from the glass with toasted spice, blue flowers, mocha and savory herbs joining. Flavors follow the nose, but it’s the texture here that wows. Cascading silky black fruits, bright acidity, juicy length. I wrote back in 2020 that the 2015 Solaia was near to perfection. This isn’t far off. 97 points. Find this wine.
~ The 2020 Solaia is monumental ~
There are few people more intertwined with Montalcino than Fabio Tassi. What started with humble sharecropping roots extended into a family business of bee keeping. As that grew, so did the overall interest in farming. Today Fabio Tassi runs many businesses in Montalcino from Curiosity Shops, Restaurants and the famous Enoteca within the Fort.
~ Fabio Tassi ~
The 2016 Tassi Brunello “Giuseppe Tassi” is the namesake of Fabio’s Father. The vineyard lies in Castelnuovo dell’Abate and is a natural oasis within a forested wood.
~ The “Giuseppe Tassi” is a special Cru ~
The wine is a brilliant ruby with a classic fade at the rim. The wine is wood fermented and then aged for 36 months in wooden barrels of various sizes ranging from 16-25 hectoliters. This is brilliantly crafted, with an intense bouquet of flowers on the nose combining with wild berry, toasted tobacco and spices. On the palate, the minerality in the wine shines through with dusty, significant tannins that are notable but not dominant. The crushed wild berry fruit is mouthwatering and succulent. This is an astounding wine of purity and finesse. It really drives home the elegance of the 2016 vintage and drank well over 3 nights. It may be the top wine I’ve tasted from 2016. 97 points. Available in the Fortezza in Montalcino.
~ A closer overhead look of the Tassi Brunello ~
I will re-visit the Fortezza come September to see what other gems I can find from Tassi. They aren’t cheap, but they deliver. What’s next on the horizon? Last year I also bought a bottle of the Tassi Colombaio Brunello 2019. That will be the next data point.
Salute!
