Tuscan Snips – Volume 16

~ Campochiarenti stars again in Tuscan Snips ~

It’s hard to imagine that Volume 16 of Tuscan Snips is upon us!  What began as an idea put to me by one of my Social Media readers has become a favored staple.

Fifteen volumes is a lot.  But fear not, because I have linked each installment together; so you can click through the entire series easily.  Let’s go!

Situated Southwest of Montalcino, in the direction of Tavernelle, is the 27 hectare estate of Podere Brizio.  The estate was founded in the late 1970s and has 9 hectares under vine while 2 more are devoted to olive groves.  Since 2012, the estate is owned by the AFBV group – who also own Poggio Landi.

The 2010 Podere Brizio Brunello is in a great place right now.  Over the past 1/2 year,  I’ve been picking through my remaining 2010s.  To be honest, some of them have caused me worry with how bland and/or advanced they seemed.  I’ve had them since release, so I will chalk it up to variability since my storage is good.  This exhibits wonderful aromas of cherry, baking spices, worn leather and summer hedgerow.  Flavors persist in the mouth and echo the nose but what’s most notable is the freshness.  This red is juicy, lively and nimble. Really loved it.  95 points.

~ This was really excellent ~

My long time readers will recognize the following phrase.  I’ve preached it for decades.  “Producer over Vintage”.   If you’re not following the character of each vintage, choose a top producer.  The next wine is a perfect example.  Even though the 2013 Brunello seem to be acquitting themselves well lately, the vintage was less successful than others and even moreso outside of Montalcino.

The 2013 Passione Divina Viti Storiche was produced by Daniele Rosti at Campochiarenti. Look how gorgeous the color is!  Deep crimson at the core extends to burnt sienna at the rim of the bowl.  In the mouth, the flavors of cheery, bright tobacco, dusty cocoa and fennel are round and silky.  Wonderfully balanced acidity keeps it fresh and juicy.  The dust returns on the tannins, which are intricately woven. I admit, the first time I ever tasted this wine was shortly upon release.  I thought it was good then, but not special.  What it has evolved into is miraculous. I have quite a bit already and it’s so youthful that I may get more.  Available directly from the winery.  90% Sangiovese and 10% Colorino/Canaiolo.  95 points.

~ A remarkable wine in a difficult vintage ~

The next two wines are recent releases that we enjoyed during the last Rustic Tuscany Tour.   I wrote an article a while back that I think has come to fruition.  At least, I’m convinced. Vermentino is Italy’s next big white.  As wineries continue to invest in this grape, it is taking over the Maremma.  It is incredibly versatile with seafood and lighter pastas and functions well on its own.

The 2023 Poggio Stenti Vermentino is a medium pale gold in the glass.  Two things strike me about this wine; the body and the minerality. According to family proprietor Eleonora, this is the direct result of the soil and exposure as the wine sees no time in oak.

Bright aromas of tropical fruits with citrus, lemon grass and wet stones on the nose and palate make this a remarkably complex wine for the price. Medium bodied, with wonderful acidity, this lingers nicely. Available directly from the winery.  92 points.

~ This is my first 2023 Vermentino and it’s gorgeous ~

I’ve enjoyed the 2017 and 2018 vintages of the next wine, Tribulo.  But this one is on a whole new level.

The 2019 Poggio Stenti Tribulo sports a new label.  In local vernacular, Tribulo means “troubles” or “tribulation”.  It’s a nod to how difficult winemaking can be.  Tribulo is an outstanding value.  Bright crimson, the nose explodes with crushed berry, fresh flowers and hints of stones.  Flavors echo the nose and are so fresh, juicy and lively. It’s impossible to take just one sip.  Again, I am thrilled that I purchased what I did and frankly, should have bought a case.  92 points.  Available directly from the winery.

~ Tribulo, is 100% Sangiovese ~

A new entry to Tuscan Snips, the next wine is tough for me.  I penned and in-depth article on several vintages a few years ago.  It is absolutely delicious.  In fact, it’s utterly decadent.

The 2021 Tenuta Biserno “Biserno” is produced from an even blend of Bordelaise varieties with a tiny addition of Petit Verdot.  The color is opaque.  On the nose, the wine exudes class.  Big aromas of blackberry and black plum are tinged with notes of eucalyptus, fresh floral notes and gentle baking spices.  On the palate, the wine is ripe and round, with silky tannins that are seamlessly integrated.  This is meant to compete with the likes of Ornellaia and I think it does so very, very well.  It’s not the most Tuscan wine you’ll come across, but it is delicious.  93-97 points. Why a range?  Your insistence on terroir will drive how much you dig this wine.  35% Cab Franc, 32% Merlot, 29% Cab Sauvignon and 4% Petit Verdot.  Find this wine.

~ This wine is gorgeous and would be a wonderful ringer in a blind tasting of Napa Cabernet ~

Not only is the next wine new to Tuscan Snips, but it’s also a new wine!  I’ve written about Fattoria Aiola before and we’ve visited them on the Rustic Tuscany Tour.  But with the 2019 vintage, they’ve created a new wine that is a 100%  “Cru” Sangiovese.

The 2019 Fortezza dell’Aiola Chianti Classico Riserva is a bit of mystery.  The first night I had it opened, I was disappointed in the balance from the oak.  The wine spends only 24 months in wood. However, barrique can often overwhelm Sangiovese and I sensed that here.  The wine was charry and too dominated by the oak.  I set it aside.

The next night, the wine had changed remarkably.  The chariness had completely dissipated and what emerged was quite delicious.  Loads of black cherry, roasted coffee and minerality are front and center on the nose and palate.  Fennel, fresh herbs and dusty porcini mark the long finish.  I have to say, I’m impressed.  But you must do one of two things. Either cellar this for 3-5 years or decant it for 3-4 hours.   93 points.  Find this wine.

~ This is a new 100% Sangiovese Cru wine from Aiola ~

Finally, we top off this installment with a grand wine.  If Dario Cecchini is the loudest protagonist for Panzano, then Il Molino di Grace is mute.   And I’m OK with that.  On one of my recent trips to Tuscany, I stopped in at “Grace” to meet the team in advance of including them on a future itinerary.

The 2020 Il Molino di Grace Chianti Classico Riserva is delicious.  This 100% Sangiovese is perfectly youthful.  Deep black cherry and plum aromas are trimmed with baking spices and roasted espresso bean.  On the palate, this is vibrant, with crushed cherry, tobacco, leather and mocha spice notes.  Well balanced, this is put together so well.  Delicious now with assertive food, this will age effortlessly until at least its 10th birthday.  I love it.  94 points.   Limited importation, but that’s improving. Also available from the winery.  Find this wine.

~ I can’t wait to watch this evolve. Lots of potential here ~

Stay tuned for more Tuscan Snips, but also be ready for what’s coming soon?   A new Roman contorno, Part 3 of Brunello 2019,  Part 2 of Brunello 2013 Retrospective,  a Renieri Tasting and more!

Salute!