~ The Contucci Palazzo sits on the Piazza Grande in Montepulciano ~
Andrea Contucci traces his family’s wine making roots to the year 1008. But, although that’s impressive, that’s not what makes this gentle man special. Despite the fact that Andrea’s family is Nobility who, along with a handful of other families, essentially founded Montepulciano, Contucci is as humble and soft spoken as can be.
The family’s Palazzo stands on the Piazza Grande in Montepulciano directly across from the Town Hall. It’s almost impossible to visit Montepulciano and miss it. It’s a fixture on the Rustic Tuscany Tour and with good reason. Andrea’s wines are as charming as he is. Contucci is Montepulciano.
~ The family cellars are directly beneath the Palace ~
Given the winemaking lineage, you might expect the family wines to be traditional. To a certain degree, that is correct. The quartet of Vino Nobile produced contain no international grapes. Additionally, unlike other Houses that have moved toward 100% Sangiovese for Nobile, Contucci still blends the wine with other native varietals like Canaiolo, Colorino and Malvasia Nera.
Andrea is keen that his wines honor their place of origin. A few years back, the Nobile Consorzio allowed producers to reduce the historical name of Vino Nobile by removing the word “Montepulciano”. As a result, wines were labeled simply as “Vino Nobile” or even “Nobile”. However, Contucci still uses the longer, traditional name. When I asked him why, his answer was simple. “We want the wine to be reflective of it’s place.” He has little concern of being confused with the wine from Abruzzo.
Despite the respect for tradition, they are not intent to blindly rest on their laurels. Innovation constantly takes place from fermentation to vinification. Wood types and barrel sizes have evolved over the years to include not only Slavonian Botte, but also French Tonneaux and now Austrian oak.
~ The Contucci’s are literally “on top of their work”. The cellars are below the family’s home ~
A visit to the Contucci Cellars begins with a descent to the depths of the “catacombs” beneath the family home which date back over one thousand years. No nook or cranny has been wasted. Cement fermentation tanks are seamlessly built into walls. Niches are filled with painstakingly stacked Nobile resting until maturity. Space is at a premium but has been masterfully utilized.
~ The depths of the cellar at Contucci in Montepulciano ~
~ Andrea Contucci discussing his winemaking philosophy during the Rustic Tuscany Tour ~
As you walk with Andrea through his ancient workspace, your anticipation to taste his wine builds. His dedication and passion are almost tangible. I must admit, it’s rather inspiring. Many wine cellar tours are quite similar. But Contucci is unique and clearly different. Despite using a winery whose space limits the way in which the family can work, the resulting wines are incredibly well made; as if they were produced in the most modern of facilities.
~ This is bottled wine that will become Vino Nobile Riserva ~
~ More “AAD” Riserva. The arch is filled. The “window” is filled. No space is wasted and the organization of it all is equally impressive ~
With a smile that seems almost merciful, Andrea asks, “should we go taste some wine?” I suppose, a stampede for the lovely tasting room might ensue, were it not for some of steep angles and narrow passage ways in the cellars.
~ Recent Vintage Tasting ~
As I mentioned earlier, the family produces four distinct Vino Nobile. These wines come from their vineyard holdings which are spread in all directions around Montepulciano. Consequently, the family can produce wines that reflect the different expositions, soils and yes, climates that circle the town.
~ Part of the Tasting Lineup during Rustic Tuscany ~
The total production at Contucci is approximately 70,000 bottles per year, depending upon the character of the vintage. That is very small, even by modern standards. But it’s what also makes Contucci’s commitment to Nobile impressive.
2019 Vino Nobile – Tan Label: This is a wine that is sourced from all three areas where the family has vineyards: East, South and West of Montepulciano. In that sense, it is the most representative of the vintage as a whole. I’ve enjoyed every vintage of this wine going back to 2015 and for me, the 2019 is the best yet. It’s floral and fruity on the nose with hints of Christmas spices. It is absolutely gorgeous in the mouth with juicy persistent flavors, freshness and complexity. Medium weight tannins make it approachable and versatile. Well worth buying. (and I did!) 80% Sangiovese, 10% Colorino, 10% Canaiolo.
2019 Vino Nobile “Mulin Vecchio”: This wine is sourced from the western side of Montepulciano and is from a single vineyard that is only 1 hectare in size. The unique facet is that the vineyard sits on volcanic soil which is very rare for Montepulciano. The vines are approaching 35 years of age. This wine is built bigger and spends 30 months in oak. Compact, more tannic and with a fruit profile that is replete with minerality and powdered stones. Dark cherries, iron and dusty spices mark the nose and palate. Will benefit from cellaring. 80% Sangiovese, 10% Colorino, 10% Canaiolo.
~ You find some amazing courtyards when wandering around Montepulciano ~
2019 Vino Nobile “Pietra Rossa”: This is also a single vineyard wine. Essentially, it is the exact same wine as Mulin Vecchio except that it comes from the East side of the Montepulciano hill. As the name indicates, “Red Stones” are prevalent in the vineyard owing to the clay and iron deposits in the soil. Perhaps more masculine than the Mulin Vecchio. The clay attributes more structure and depth to this red. However, the early morning sun counterbalances some of that. It’s still elegant, but it’s a bit more tannic and less powdery. What I see in this wine is a streak of iron minerality that permeates the bright, juicy cherry fruit like a laser beam. 80% Sangiovese, 10% Colorino, 10% Canaiolo.
~ The cisterna in the Piazza Grande features two lions holding the crest of the Medici family. Next to the lions are two Griffins, representing Montepulciano ~
2018 Vino Nobile Riserva: This wine, like the tan label, is produced from all three sites but is a stricter selection of the fruit. While I typically enjoy 2018s – this wine did itself a bit of disservice in such close proximity to the 2019s. It’s very good, but doesn’t exhibit the same plushness or complexity the 2019’s show. I don’t mean that to sound negative. This will drink well for another 3-5 years and be versatile with food. It’s fresh, lively and approachable. It’s the perfect foil for mid-weight dishes and pastas. 80% Sangiovese, 10% Colorino, 10% Canaiolo.
~ And gardens galore………… ~
2019 Vino Nobile “Palazzo” : This is a Cru of Crus. First produced in 2017 to celebrate the 500th year of the family living in the Piazza Grande Palazzo, this wine is a stricter selection from Mulin Vecchio (West) and Pietra Rossa (East). It is hand harvested, hand selected and fermented in both cement and stainless steel. French and Slavonian oak are used for aging. Only 4,000 bottles per year are produced. It is considered to be the pinnacle of the Contucci production.
The 2019 is fabulous. It blends the characteristics of both East-West terroir seamlessly. It’s powerful, yet elegant. The tannins are powdery and caress. Dark cherry, toasted spices, Christmas cake, pipe tobacco – this wine makes me think of the Palazzo and the Piazza. Again, I happily bought it! 80% Sangiovese, 10% Colorino, 10% Canaiolo.
Have you had any of Contucci’s wines? Let me know in the comments section. If not, seek them out and let me know what you think. Salute!
~ The crest designed for the millennium ~
A presto……..
