Montepulciano Introduces “Pieve” Designation

~ Montepulciano at the Apex ~

Montepulciano has redefined its apex.  Did that information elude your radar?  You’re not alone.  I’m not sure there has ever been a softer, quieter, roll out of an initiative.  But this is a significant development, so I will break it down for you.

Like Chianti Classico before them, with the advent of Gran Selezione and the new UGA discipline,  the Consorzio Nobile has created a new top wine tier that sits above Vino Nobile Riserva.  The name?  “Pieve”. In Italian, while Chiesa means Church, “Pieve” has a broader but similar meaning: “Pieve” generally refers to a rural church or parish, typically one that serves a small community or village.  The Vino Nobile UGA have been created around these parishes.  But let’s step back.  What is a “UGA”?

~ The real name of this wine is “Flaccianello della Pieve”. There is a small chapel near Fontodi from where the wine gets its name and Cross Symbol ~

Like the Chianti Classico Gran Selezione, the new “Unità Geografiche Aggiuntive”  (UGA) are drill downs of distinct geographic origin aimed at increasing the terroir  and thereby the specificity of  Vino Nobile.  Twelve such zones have been established.  They are as follows:

The initiative is meant to be aimed at both quality and marketing focuses. By emphasizing terroir, the Pieve designation seeks to differentiate Vino Nobile di Montepulciano from other Sangiovese-based wines like Chianti Classico or Brunello.  As a result, the hope is that this addresses past criticisms of the appellation’s lack of a distinct identity.  And while the “Pieve” classification isn’t any guarantee of quality, in the hands of a trusted producer, this now creates a top tier wine group.

I’m not certain the concerns about identity are well founded.  Lovers of Tuscan wine understand where Montepulciano is and what Vino Nobile is about.  The casual wine drinker likely won’t care.  But what will this change mean for the educated drinker?

Vino Nobile “Pieve” Classification

The Pieve classification is permitted for wines beginning with the 2021 vintage, which were eligible for release on February 1, 2025.  The following characteristics are the most significant requirements for producers to meet in order to use one of the “Pieve” designations listed above on their labels.

Grape Composition

• A minimum of  90% Sangiovese must be used.  (standard Vino Nobile is 80%)
• Up to 10% other native Tuscan red grape varieties may be used (i.e.  Canaiolo, Mammolo, Colorino).
• No international varieties are permitted.

Geographical Origin

• The grapes must come exclusively from vineyards located within one of the 12 defined “Pieve” in the Montepulciano appellation. Each Pieve reflects historical parish boundaries and is intended to showcase distinct territorial identities.

Aging Requirements

• The wine must be aged for a minimum of 36 months before release, compared to 24 months for standard Vino Nobile.
• Of this period, at least 12 months must be spent in wood plus an additional 12 months in bottle.

Vineyard Age

• Vineyards must be at least 15 years old to qualify for Pieve labeling. This ensures that the vines are mature and capable of producing grapes with complex characteristics.

Production Controls

• The grapes must be sourced from vineyards owned or directly controlled by the producer. Purchasing grapes from other growers is not allowed for Pieve wines. This ensures full traceability and control over the production process from vineyard to bottle.

~ This Map illustrates the boundaries and location of the 12 distinct Pieve and their relation to the town of Montepulciano.   Source:  Consorzio Vino Nobile  ~

The above map gives a good representation for where the Pieve lie.  It’s important to note that the Pieve were not carved out with a directional mentality – i.e.  not North/South/East/West as it relates to Montepulciano.

Instead, they were demarcated by centuries old parishes bounded by rivers, streams or roads.  The focus was on the distinctness of the terroir in each Pieve.  The large area separating Valiano from the balance of the Pievi is the “Pianura” – a large fertile plain, but one that is not suitable for grape growing.

~ The Griffins atop the Cisterna in Montepulciano’s Piazza Grande are the symbol of the city ~

So what do we expect?  Better quality wines?  Identifiable terroir that’s easily distinguished from estate Nobile? Confusion?  I’m not sure anyone can answer these questions with confidence.  Although the production of “Pieve” designated wines is expected to be only about 5-10% of the appellations output, that still represents about 600,000 bottles per year.  Therefore, finding wines so labeled should not be difficult – especially in Pieve where larger producers are present.

A notable distinction is the absence of international grapes.  But in a sense, even this isn’t new.  Many producers rely on 100% Sangiovese (Boscarelli/Avignonesi)  and many also blend with only native varieties.  (Contucci/Salcheto)  And where Merlot and Cabernet are used, the wine is notably different. The color and roundness of the wine is markedly changed. (Poliziano) So I think the difference in that sense will be stark.

To close, while I was finishing this piece,  I was enjoying Contucci’s Estate Vino Nobile and in a way, this emphasizes the point.  Andrea Contucci produces several Nobile because he has vineyards throughout the zone.  This article explains his philosophy about site specific wines. Yet, it is the tan label Nobile, the blend of all his vineyards, that excites me the most.  Furthermore, each of his Nobile are 80% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo and 10% Colorino. So if he wants to create a Pieve wine, he will need to change his blends.

Like any reforms in Italy, it will certainly be interesting to watch.

~ Contucci’s Vino Nobile with the largest production, this wine is a blend from all of his vineyard sites ~

I haven’t tried the above wine since tasting it at the winery last Autumn upon release.  The is sourced from all three areas where the family has vineyards:  East, South and West of Montepulciano.  In that sense, it is the most representative of the vintage as a whole.

The 2019 Contucci Vino Nobile displays aromas of crushed berry, spices and soft tobacco. It needs to be opened for about 60 minutes to fully shine, but when it does it’s absolutely gorgeous in the mouth with juicy persistent flavors, freshness and complexity.  This leans more toward wild berry than cherry atthe moment, but adds toasted spices and sweet tobacco notes as well.  The tannins are finely woven which make this approachable and versatile.  80% Sangiovese, 10% Colorino, 10% Canaiolo.  95 points.  Available directly from the winery.

~ Andrea gives an amazing tour of his ancient cellars ~

Salute!