Tuscan Snips – Volume 19

~ This little sentinel watches over the piazza in Sant’Angelo in Colle ~

Back to back Tuscan Snips?   Oh yeah!

I hope this first article of 2026 finds you all doing well.  As always, the holiday time frame saw lots of wine opened and thus I figured it warranted another Tuscan Snips despite the last installment being at the end of 2025.  So let’s get to it.

The first winery is near and dear to my heart for many reasons.  Not the least of which, is that the family is wonderful and has essentially adopted me. (or maybe I volunteered myself as such)  Regardless, that wouldn’t matter if the wines weren’t superlative in every way.  How many ways?   Well, phenomenal quality.  Interesting typicity and excellent value.

I’m wary of the fact that my close connection to the family might cause some to question my reviews. But I assure you, I would not compromise my reputation. The fact that they are wonderful makes my job all the easier. I think, through my followers and articles on X, that many people have tried these wines and agree with my reviews. And so, that brings me to the latest release;  Campochiarenti Vernaccia 2024.

Buy it.  It’s the best Vernaccia Daniele has made in at least a decade.  And if you know his quality, you know what a statement that is. I cannot remember a Vernaccia from another producer as good.  It has body without being heavy. Crispness without being light.  Fruitiness without seeming sweet.  Dustiness, saline, flinty citrus notes – all of which speak to San Gimignano.  This is a benchmark wine.  95 points.  Available Directly from the Winery.

~ This recent release from Campochiarenti is a stunner ~

Recently, one my readers contacted me about an amazing 2018 Brunello he tasted and we had some back and forth about the vintage.  From my early impressions of the year, it has always reminded me of a modern version of 1988.  And as a result of the many tastings since, nothing has changed that in my mind.

“A Vineyard in Tuscany” is a hysterical tale of how the Mate’s came to acquire what is now Podere Colombaio.  Ever since I read that book I wanted to taste Ferenc & Candace Mate’s wine.  I’ve had many over the years but their Brunello and Syrah stand out.

The 2018 Mate Brunello is a perfumed beauty with a classic color.   Bright ruby reflections lead to a copper colored rim.  Fresh flowers, dried herbs, pipe tobacco and wild berry punctuate the nose in lovely fashion.  On the palate, this elegant Sangiovese is lively and mouth watering.  Bright berry flavors are echoed by toasted spices and powdery tannins.  Went great with a primi of pasta with lamb ragu.  92 points. Very well done.  Find this wine.  Price varies widely here so shop around. I paid nothing close the amounts reflected here.

~ I will be visiting Mate in June, so stay tuned for more ~

Christmas Eve was a little different this year.  Although we managed to adhere to the 7 fishes concept, there were those among us who didn’t do seafood.  Our host accommodated with a roasted tenderloin.  I give props to my son who said, I’m almost 25, I don’t go places empty handed!  He brought the following wine.

The 2019 Viticcio Chianti Classico Riserva is a welcome bargain.   I know the picture doesn’t illustrate the color very well, but hey, it was Christmas Eve.  In the glass, it’s a medium ruby with violet reflections. Soft, alluring nose of sandalwood, wild cherry and dried, smoky tobacco.  On the palate this wine sings!  It’s so silky and refined. Boy is it ever smooth.  Long and juicy with ripe cherry, rosemary and smoky fennel – this has a twinge of bright orange zest on the finish.  A blend of 90% Sangiovese with 5% each of Merlot and Syrah. I was shocked at how good this was having not had much from this winery in a long time. It got drained rapidly and is an excellent value. Should be under $25.  94 points.  Find this wine.

~ This was a great value for a Riserva ~

The next entrant is simply one of my favorite wines; and one of my first, “favorite wines” since I tasted the 1990.

Summus was always special to me.  It was unique.  It was produced in limited quantity and it was always excellent.  I suppose that’s mainly still true, though with the 2020 vintage, the blend for Summus appears to be an annual decision. The 2020 removed the Sangiovese in favor of Merlot.  The 2021 appears to have removed the Syrah in favor of Petit Verdot.

The 2015 Summus is a benchmark.  One of my early reviews was over dinner with then General Manager Enrico Viglierchio.  It stunned that night.  It hasn’t changed much.  The color is still impenetrable.  The nose is replete with black Italian plums, crushed stone, mint and roasted coffee. On the palate, the wine has softened beautifully but retains a wonderful structure.  Rich and inviting flavors of dark berry and plum meld with coffee, mint, eucalyptus and smoked spices. The Sangiovese is starting to poke through more as this ages. Typical maturation pattern for Summus.

The 2015 is 40% Brunello, 40% Cabernet and 20% Syrah.   95 points.  Find this wine.

~ Note the old label of this vintage of Summus ~

A bit of food always accompanies fine wine at Castello Fodera.  Below, we have braised lamb shanks over yukon gold mashed potatoes adorned with green onion.

~ Long braised lamb shanks melted in your mouth with the wine and the potatoes were just…..amazing! ~

Tuscan Snips is also a good mechanism for writing about what I call “laggards”.  These are wines that, for one reason or another,  were not included in the “Annual Reports” for the genre.  But to taste this next entrant, and not megaphone from somewhere atop the thing,  would be journalistically criminal.

The 2019 Valdicava Brunello is a masterpiece of the vintage.  I’ve said many times 2019 is the combination of the 2015s power and 2016s aromatics. This has that in spades.  Don’t let the color fool you. When I first poured this, my wife said, oohh I don’t like that color.  But this is a full bodied, yet elegant Brunello.  Wildly aromatic with fresh fennel, crushed wild berry, pipe tobacco, Christmas pudding and roasted coffee blending harmoniously. Captivating.  In the mouth, this is round, juicy and powerful wine glides effortlessly with no rough edges.  It’s structure carried on a frame of juicy, mouthwatering waves of berry.  It’s difficult to describe the tactile nature of this wine.  Wet stones, mushroom and cured meat dot the finish.  Yes, this wine is expensive.  It’s more expensive than many in the category.  But, it sets itself apart.  I try to splurge for 1 or 2 in the best vintages.  That “splurge” is lessened by using Enoteca di Piazza when in stock.  98 points.

~ A monumental Brunello ~

Finally, I’m working on a couple of interesting Feature Articles now.  In addition to Part 2 of the 2020 Brunello Annual Report,  we will return to Vallocaia and Terriccio for some interesting updates. Plus, next month I will be covering Benvenuto Brunello, 2021.

Salute!